Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
One of the most important things that you can do to keep you Kawasaki
motorcycle running at optimum performance is to perform regular
maintenance. There are a number of ways to do this. Some owners take
their bikes into a repair shop every six months or so for a check-up.
Others save money by doing the work at home themselves. Doing it
yourself can help keep the maintenance costs of your Kawasaki
motorcycle down. Here are five steps you can do right now to insure
that your Kawasaki Motorcycle runs as well as the first day you got it.
Lets start with the brakes. Step number 1 is to replace the brake pads.
It might sound like a hard place to start, but it only takes 45 minutes
and tools that you already own. If your brakes feel a little soft, or
are making a squealing noise, replacing the brake pads might fix the
problem. Kawasaki motorcycles use EBC/HH brake pads, and any reputable
dealer can find the correct model numbers for your bike. A better
choice when replacing the brake pads is to go with Kawasaki's
own brand, the OEM pads. Kawasaki's website has a listing of
brake pads for each model of motorcycle.
Step number 2, check the levels of brake fluid on your Kawasaki
motorcycle. Kawasaki includes a level window with a marker near the
master cylinder. There should be a maximum, and minimum level noted on
the window, to show you when the fluids are high and low. If the levels
are too low, you will need to add more fluid. You may discover that the
brake fluids are too high, in which case you'll need to
siphon out some of the fluid. Too much fluid can overflow from the
tanks, even when sitting in place.
Since you're already working on the brakes, you can work on
step number 3, which is to bleed the brakes. Most motorcycle owners
have their own way of bleeding the brakes, and Kawasaki owners are no
exception. There are dozens of ways to bleed brakes, but only one that
the Kawasaki manufacturer recommends.
Start by filling a pump oil can with new brake fluid, and attaching it
to
the brake bleeder valve via a hose. Pump the oil can slowly, to get the
fluid moving through the bike. It will slowly push out the old fluid,
and let the new fluid flow through your motorcycle. Be careful not to
get any fluid on the exterior of the bike, as it can strip the paint.
Then slowly pump the brakes until you get the air out. It may take a
few minutes of pumping the brakes for the air to squeeze out, so be
patient.
Step number 4 is to check the oilfilter. The oilfilter is used to
catch any dirt or debris from entering into the engine. Many riders,
and even some shops stop short of checking the filter, which
isn't necessarily a good thing. Certain items can poke holes
in the filter, allowing larger items to slip inside. Clean out the
debris, and if there's any damage, replace the filter immediately. A Filter can befound at any store specializing in aftermarket
kawasaki motorcycle parts.
Step number 5 is to check the U-joint. You might notice a vibration in
your Kawasaki motorcycle, that starts out light but gets progressively
worse. This can be the result of damage to the U-joint, or a lack of
lubrication. Try using a small amount of lubrication on the joint, and
taking the bike out for a small drive. If the problem persists, its
time for a new U-joint. Kawasaki dealers carry the part in stock, or
can order it for your bike for around -70.
If you are looking at keeping your Kawasaki motorcycle costs down,
start with these five easy steps you can do right now. Most take only a
small amount of money now, but can save you expensive repairs in the
future.
Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
Motorcycle Oil Filter
Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
Motorcycle Oil Filter
Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
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Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
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Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps Keeping Your Kawasaki Motorcycle Maintenance Costs Down in 5 Easy Steps
There is a lot of confusion about oil in motorcycles. Specially marketed "motorcycleoil" is a lot more expensive than oil sold for cars, but is it really safe to run car oil? Yes, just make sure it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements. Generally, you are better off with a heavy-duty oil for motorcycles, such as 15w40, below is a list of oils known to work well in motorcycles:
1. Chevron Delo 400 15w40
2. Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
3. Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
4. Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
5. Shell Rotella-T 15w40 (my personal favorite)
6. SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
7. Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
8. Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
A really good choice HAS always been Mobil One 15w50, but recently they changed their formula from TriSynthetic to SuperSyn, which has additional friction modifiers, which may make it no longer a good choice for bikes. This is still up in the air, with people having mixed results, but I say, why risk it, try one of the other ones above!
Now, this may seem sketchy to you, and you're thinking, yea it may work, but will my bike die in a year? In the June 1996 Issue of Sport Rider Magazine, there was a report called, "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used regular Castrol GTX car oil, 20W50 in the summer, 10W40 in the winter, changed his oil every 4000 miles, only changed the oilfilter EVERY OTHER time. When this bike had 100,000 miles on it, they dyno'd it up against an identical bike with only 6,722 miles on it, and the horsepower and torque curves were virtually identical! The magazine later did a follow up, with the same CBR at 200,000 miles and going strong, so as you can see, the oil had no affect on his bike.
So, you may wonder, "Why then, is motorcycle sooo much more money, if its the same stuff?"
Well, because they sell motorcycleoil in smaller quantities, more packaging, smaller orders, less sales, more cost per quart. Just recently, some of the major oil companies have caught on to this, and have started selling their own motorcycle oils in auto parts stores and even places like Wal Mart, and they are MUCH closer to the price of regular car oil, because once again, they are the massive companies, they move a lot more oil, and have less cost per quart. So, when you buy the really expensive motorcycleoil for your bike, what you are paying for, is not better oil, you're just paying for that companies costs. Get it? Good. Save your money for better things, like new parts!
Regular Automotive Oil in Motorcycles?
Motorcycle Oil Filter
Regular Automotive Oil in Motorcycles?
Regular Automotive Oil in Motorcycles? Regular Automotive Oil in Motorcycles?
Motorcycle Oil Filter
Regular Automotive Oil in Motorcycles?
Regular Automotive Oil in Motorcycles?
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MAP Oil Cooler Kit for 1990 Air Cooled Oil Filter Housing (DSM) - Maperformance.com
MAP Oil Cooler Kit for 1990 Air Cooled Oil Filter Housing (DSM) - Maperformance.com
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2008 - 2012 Harley Davidson Touring Model(s) K&N Air Intake Installation
Add a K&N air Intake and get an estimated power gain of 12.92 horsepower @ 4612 RPM. More power for more fun. K&N 63-1122(black finishe) and 63-1122P(mirrored finish) are listed for: 2012 HARLEY DAVIDSON FLTRX ROAD GLIDE CUSTOM 1690 - Exc. lower fairings 2012 HARLEY DAVIDSON FLHX STREET...
2008 - 2012 Harley Davidson Touring Model(s) K&N Air Intake Installation
The Mini Moto is a small scale replica of the World Super Bikes used by the likes of Valentino Rossi and ex champion Carl Fogarty. The Mini Moto comes equipped with either a two stroke air or water cooled engine which are, depending on the model, capable of speeds of up to 60Mph.
Know Your Mini Moto
YFZ450 Quad Walk Around
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YFZ450 Quad Walk Around
(Fox, DWT, UNI, Yamaha, Motoworks, GYTR, E-Sticky, KYB, FasstCo, FLY, ALPINE STARS) Forrest #77 Please subscribe here: www.youtube.com Videos you will see on this channel, Funny, ATV help, Racing & Practicing TAGS IGNORE: atvs motocrossxgames 2011 new record mark freeman408 forrest#77 goproforrest flexx bars dwt tires travis pastrna yamaha yfz450 RX new james stewart funny alex ashley folec youtube partner racing mx quadcross new today 2012 raptor660r how to mchange check oil airfilter vr1 a class pro amatur intermeiate iorncity special editionx fmf yoshimotofuel tv change tires fix engine bike 4 wheeler utv insane jump cliff double biggest tabletop riding hard everyday holeshot bike mods SR4 carbon exhaust atv quad motoworks yoshimuri pipe system nerf barks oil air filter oil filter free givaway helmet(Fox, DWT, UNI, Yamaha, Motoworks, GYTR, E-Sticky,, KYB, FasstCo, FLY, ALPINE STARS.
In this article I will underline the finer points of the components that make these speeds possible.
Motorcycle Oil Filter
Know Your Mini Moto
The two Stroke Engine
Know Your Mini Moto
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The two stroke engine produces more hp per pound than the four stroke engine. The two stroke engine consists of three moving parts, the piston, the rod and the crank. The piston acts as valve that opens and closes the intake and exhaust ports that are located on the walls of the cylinder. Unlike the four stroke engine that fires only every other time of the pistons movement, the two stoke engine fires every time the piston reaches the top of its travel. This means that the time spent generating power is doubled in the two stroke engine than that of the four stroke engine, as there is no engine coasting during passive cycles. This is the main reason that the two stroke engine can rev more highly and produce more power (for its size) that the four stroke.
Fuel
The two stroke engine needs to be run on a mixture of petrol and two stroke oil. This is so that the engine is kept lubricated whilst in use.
99% of all starting problems are caused by fuel problems. These can stem from bad or old fuel and improperly mixed fuel (please see mixing chart).
Do not use fuels that contain alcohol, as the can cause you bike to run 'lean'. Be advised some racing fuels contain alcohol and are best avoided..
We recommend that you use normal petrol for a garage and a quality two stroke oil.
A mixture that is too lean I.e not enough two stroke oil can damage your mini moto's engine as the moving parts are not properly lubricated. This can cause the engine to seize. However a mixture that is too rich can choke the engine and effect the performance and cause starting problems. You can tell if your mini moto is running too richly by the plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and the lack of performance. A rich mixture (25:1) is needed to lubricate the engine during the 'run in' period, you may experience a lack of performance during this period. The pocket bike may run more slowly and acceleration can be sluggish, however when you change to a mixture of 50:1 you will really notice a difference. The leaner mix ignites in the combustion chamber faster and with a more explosive force than the richer mix. This means higher revs which means more power and acceleration.
We recommend that a fuel mixture of 25:1 is used to 'run in' you mini moto, and a mixture of 50:1 is used thereafter.
'Running in'
Your mini moto should be 'run in' for the first 3-4 tanks of fuel. During this period we recommend that you use a fuel mixture of 25:1. This means a mixture that is made up of 25 parts petrol to 1 part of two stroke oil. During the 'running in' period be careful to not rev the engine to its maximum as this can damage the engine. The 'running in' period will allow the moving parts to become well oiled and the clutch and brakes to 'bed' themselves in. After you have run the minimoto on this fuel mixture for 3-4 tanks, check the chain and tighten accordingly, check the tyre pressure, tighten the bolts on the brakes, forks and wheels. You may also need to readjust the throttle settings to allow for the higher revs that changing to a leaner fuel mix produces. The bike should now be ready for a fuel mixture of 50:1.
Clutch
The mini moto uses a centrifugal clutch to power the drive the sprocket, which in turn drives the back wheel of your mini moto.
When you start your mini moto the clutch spins as the engine ticks over . The clutch is engaged when you pull back on the throttle. The increase in speed of revolution of the clutch makes the clutch expand and grip the inside of the clutch bell which turns the sprocket that drives the back wheel of your pocket bike.
The clutch can be set up in different ways depending on the type of performance that you want from your minimoto. Adjustable clutches are not standard on mini moto's but an after market Polani or Blata style adjustable clutch can be used in your new mini moto. These allow the rider to adjust the mini moto's set up in according to their preference. Setting the clutch to engage too late when the engine has built up too much power may cause the clutch to slip and never fully engage. This can result in excessive wearing. However setting the clutch to engage too early, before the power has built up in the engine can cause your pocket bike to 'bog down', resulting in slow acceleration. The perfect set up is to get the clutch to engage just as the engine has built enough power to rocket the mini moto away, but without making the clutch slip, this is achievable through trial and error.
Spark Plug
Making sure that your spark plug is fresh is important in a two stroke mini moto engine. You can tell a lot from the colour of the spark plug. The top part of your spark plug is covered in ceramic insulator which, when brand new is white. This part of the spark plug can change colour according to how your engine is running. The plug should appear as a nice tan colour when the engine is running perfectly, this indicates complete combustion. A greyish or white colour indicates that the engine is running too lean which can result in engine damage. In this case you should clean and check your fuel system for any obstruction, check your fuel mixture, check for loose intake manifold bolts and carburettor mounting leeks, faulty gaskets and leaking crank seals. Anywhere that your engine could potentially leek and suck in fresh air can be the source of a lean condition.
A blackened or oily spark plug indicates improper combustion and is the result of running too rich. This can be caused by too much oil in the mixture or the spark plug could be faulty and misfiring. Check the fuel mixture and replace the spark plug.
Air Filter
Your new mini moto is equipped with an air filter. Some bikes such as the B1 Origami rep liquid cooled and the Mini Dirt bike have a 'cone' style K and N style air filter. The 2005 mk2 mini moto and the B1 Origami Replica air cooled bikes have a standard mini moto air filter. Both air filters purify the intake of air that is sucked into the carburettor. This means that the air filter should be cleaned regularly as the mini moto's performance can begin to suffer as the engine can become starved of air if the air filter is choked with debris. To reach the air filter, remove the bikes bottom fairing, remove the protective cover by unscrewing the holding screws. Clean the air filter in petrol but make sure that the filter is dry before reattaching to you mini moto.
Tyres
The tyres on your mini moto are filled with air (pneumatic). Please consult your mini moto handbook for the appropriate psi. It is important to check the tyre pressure regularly, an under inflated tyre will affect the performance of your mini moto, acceleration can become sluggish and cornering can become dangerous.
Chain
Before riding your mini moto you need to make sure that the front and back sprockets are aligned and that the chain is perfectly straight running between them. Once you have established this make sure that the chain is tensioned correctly (please see your mini moto handbook). To test the tension of the chain you can manually push the pocket bike, if you hear a 'pinging' or 'popping' sound the chain is too loose. If the chain is noisy and starts to bind the chain is too tight.
Make sure that the chain is well oiled. The chain needs to be oiled before every ride.
Gearing
The gearing of you mini moto is dictated by the number of the teeth on the front sprocket and on the back sprocket. The sprockets can be changed as an easy way to manipulate top end speed and acceleration, quite like changing gear on a mountain bike. A front sprocket with more teeth will improve acceleration, however the top end speed will be reduced. A larger rear sprocket will produce a higher top speed but acceleration will suffer. The gearing on your bike can be adjusted in accordance for the track you are intending to ride I.e. a small track with a lot of bends will suit gearing for improved acceleration, however a track with long straights will require a mini moto that is geared for a higher top speed.
Throttle
The throttle on your new mini moto is a 'twist grip' style throttle. When you twist the throttle the throttle cable is pulled back revving the engine. It is important to keep this cable free from obstacles and clean. If the throttle begins to feel 'loose' of 'gives', the tension of the cable can be adjusted via the adjusting screw.
Brakes
The brake system comprises of brake levers, brake cables, brake callipers and brake discs.
The brakes on your mini moto are operated by levers found on the handle bars. The right hand brake controls the front brake, and the left controls the back brake. Pulling on the handle pulls the brake cable which in turn pulls the lever located on the bake calliper. This action pushes the brake discs towards each other. This creates friction on the brake disc which slows down or stops the bike.
The brakes can be adjusted in the following ways.
The brake cable can be tensioned using the adjustment screw found on the brake lever. Unscrew the locking nut, twist the screw to reach the desired tension. Re screw the locking nut.
This is a two person job. Adjust the screw on the hand brake so that is at the end of its travel. Undo the clamp that holds the brake cable on the lever located on the brake calliper. One person needs to push the lever forward as far as it will, the second person needs to pull back on the brake cable and re fasten the clamp. The crake cable will now be highly tensioned.
Pull Start
To start the mini moto pull slowly to turn the fly wheel. This pumps some fuel around the engine, which lubricates the moving parts. Pull the pull start firmly in order to start the engine. Important, do not pull the cord to the end of its run as it can break. If the mini moto does not start check the choke and the throttle cable.
Choke
The choke controls the amount of air that is allowed into the air/fuel mix. The choke is adjusted via a lever located on the side and back of the engine. The choke is off when the lever is down, and on when the lever is up.
When you start the mini moto the choke should be on, when the mini moto is warm and ready to ride the choke needs to be off.
Carburettor
It is recommend that any adjustments to the carburettor are made by a professional. The carburettor pumps and mixes the fuel and air. The small diaphragms, orifices and ports mix the air and fuel very precisely, this process demands clean fresh fuel.
Jet
The jet can be adjusted by the screw located in the access hole to the right of the choke lever. The jet is adjusted by the manufacture however the conditions of where you wish to ride may be different, which means that you will need to make adjustments. Turning the screw clockwise will make the bike run with a leaner mixture, and counter clockwise will richen the mixture. Only adjust the screw 1 tern a at time and then test the mini moto, this is trail and error. Please note that it is best to find the optimum setting for performance and then run a slightly richer mixture as a mix that is too lean can seize the engine.
NEW WEBSITE: RubberOnRoad.com A how-to video for changing the Oil and Oil Filter on a motorcycle presented by RubberOnRoad.com . The motorcycle used is a 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic. Check out rubberonroad.com for more tips, trips, and general motorcycle discussion!
